Essex: 350 miles of coast, Maldon sea salt and windmills
Essex is a large county in East of England, with the country’s second longest coastline (after Devon). Not just Bluewater shopping centre and Dartford Tunnel, it’s home to many pretty villages with pubs, and windmills galore. Along with ancient forest and woodlands.
Always follow the Countryside Code, to keep all creatures safe.
If at the coast, read our post on keeping dogs safe by the seaside.
England’s Second Smallest Cathedral
After Derby, St Mary’s Cathedral is England’s smallest, with a tower and nave very modest in size, compared to others. Dating from the 13th century, parts of the building still show original stonework and medieval charm.
The Birthplace of Radio
This is quite a controversial story. Because on the plus side, this is the city where the first wireless broadcast happened, which went onto create our modern radio (and also was instrumental in helping the survivors of the Titanic be found, thanks to broadcasting to a nearby ship).
It all sounds rather romantic, when we hear that the broadcast was thanks to an handsome Italian immigrant – until we find that he went onto become a member of Mussolini’s Fascist Party. A bit like statues in England have now been removed, in Italy many memorials to his intellect have now been destroyed, as Italians prefer to forget this ugly part of their history.
Scene of the Feature-length Porridge Film
Everyone loves Porridge, one of the best comedy series of all time. And unlike some TV series, the feature film was just as good, featuring a ‘get-back-into-jail’ comedy, when Fletch and Godber accidentally escape. The series was located in what is now Cumbria, and mostly filmed in studios.
But for the film, Chelmsford Prison was used for the interior scenes (due to a fire refurbishment, the prison was empty in 1979 during filming). Some of the local football players also had cameo roles.
One recalled that unlike his character, Ronnie Barker was very reserved (almost shy) and very posh (unlike his character!) And that Richard Beckinsale would often happily visit the local Oddfellows Arms, to have a brandy and smoke a huge cigar!
Few places in England mix ancient stories and quirky charm like Colchester. Known as the country’s oldest recorded town and the first Roman city, it’s packed with history at every turn. The River Colne winds through its heart, carrying tales from Roman settlers right up to today.
Locals still talk about the 1884 earthquake that rattled homes and made the news nationwide. Colchester also boasts some unexpected titles, like being the driest spot in England, but don’t let that fool you—plenty about this town stands out. Get comfortable and enjoy a gentle wander through legends, odd facts, and the colourful culture that make Colchester so memorable.
Colonia Victricensis: England’s First Roman City
Arriving in AD 43, the Romans picked Colchester as their stronghold. They called it Colonia Victricensis, meaning “City of Victory,” to celebrate their triumph over local tribes. The name “colonia” mattered. In Roman terms, it was a badge reserved for special settlements. It told everyone this was no mere fort but an official, privileged city for army veterans.
Early Colchester was every bit a Roman town. Think of a neat grid — streets slotted together like puzzle pieces. Main roads ran straight and true, making movement and trade easy. Public buildings clustered in the centre: a forum for gatherings, temples for worship, and markets buzzing with traders.
The 1884 Earthquake: A Rare Shaking
Most of us think of earthquakes as a problem for far-off places, not for a quiet corner of Essex. Colchester proved everyone wrong on 22 April 1884. Early in the afternoon, a rare and powerful earthquake (by British standards) rippled through the town and the countryside around it.
- Magnitude: Estimated at 4.6 to 5.1 on the Richter scale
- Epicentre: Near the villages of Peldon and Abberton, south of Colchester
- Affected Area: Felt across Essex, Suffolk, and even London
The shaking damaged over 1,200 buildings, from village churches to Colchester’s own landmarks. Chimneys fell, walls cracked, and news of the tremor swept through national papers. Most local people had never experienced anything like it.
Old King Cole and Humpty Dumpty!
Many children’s stories owe something to Colchester, if you listen to local legends. Take Old King Cole, the “merry old soul” from the famous nursery rhyme. Some say he might have been based on a real king, possibly Coel Hen, a ruler in Roman and post-Roman times whose name resembles Colchester itself. There’s no hard proof, but the stories linger, lending a regal flair to local history.
Then there’s Humpty Dumpty, usually pictured as a wobbly egg, but in Colchester, the rhyme might point in a very different direction. Local folklore says Humpty Dumpty was actually a large cannon used during the Siege of Colchester in the English Civil War (1648). According to the story:
- The Royalists placed “Humpty Dumpty” atop St Mary-at-the-Walls Church.
- The Parliamentarians damaged the wall beneath it, causing the cannon to fall.
With this tale, the rhyme steps straight into Colchester’s streets. If you walk by St Mary’s Church today, you’re looking at the possible setting for one of the most famous verses in the English language.
George Orwell’s Fictional Nuclear Attack and Colchester
Colchester pops up in the unlikeliest corners of British literature. George Orwell, famous for 1984 and Animal Farm, once imagined a nuclear attack on a town resembling Colchester. In his short story “The Last Man in Europe,” Orwell describes the impact and aftermath of such a strike, using Colchester as a template for a typical English town under threat.
Why Colchester? It’s ordinary yet historic, far enough from London to feel exposed, but familiar enough to stand for towns everywhere. In Orwell’s hands, Colchester becomes a symbol: not just of a real place, but of the risks and worries facing everyone in Britain.
Even though the town survived in reality, its appearance in Orwell’s fiction gives Colchester a darker literary twist, making it a footnote in the country’s nuclear-age imagination.
Learn why England does not need nuclear power.
Colchester as England’s Driest Area
This town has another less dramatic, but still surprising claim to fame: Colchester is officially known as the driest area in England. Most towns in the country expect a mix of showers and drizzle, but Colchester averages less rain than anywhere else in the nation.
Colchester gets around 106 days of rain per year (compared to 109 for London, 124 for Newcastle and 142 for Manchester).
Colchester’s average rainfall per year is 106 (538mm)
The climate shapes daily life in real, practical ways. For instance, farmers can grow wheat, barley and other crops that like drier soil. Although they are risk of parched grass, during summer heatwaves.
But a dry reputation isn’t all good news. Nature reserves and local wildlife must adapt, and everyone learns to make the most of each drop of rain. Colchester’s dry, sunny reputation appeals to those who crave a bit more blue sky in their day.
One of England’s Last Department Stores
A caveat: most department stores remaining don’t always sell the most ethical foods. But they could if they wanted, as they are independent, and not controlled by huge head offices elsewhere.
Fenwick is one of England’s last remaining independent department stores. Now that Debenhams has gone, there are few stores remaining (even Beatties of Wolverhampton no longer exists).
But if the product and brands changed (plant-based, fair trade, locally-made), these stores are far nicer than always shopping at big chain stores and supermarkets. Staff are usually trained well, and you can get advice from people who know what they are talking about.
And as independent stores, money is retained in the economy. Fenwick actually started out by merging a haberdashery with a hardware store, so it has rich history.
Although now terribly dated, the comedy Are You Being Served? had millions of viewers back in the 70s, not thanks to the terribly funny John Inman and Mollie Sugden. Based on the author’s time working in a Piccadilly department store, and John Inman’s first job in real life was also as a window dresser in a department store.
Born to two hairdressers in Preston (Lancashire), some criticised his camp persona, as giving the wrong impression of gay people. However, John said all he wanted to do was make people accept through comedy, and was himself in a deeply committed relationship, which lasted for 30 years and resulted in a civil partnership ceremony.
Mollie Sugden became a national icon with her purple hair and references to her beloved cat (in a survey in the early 90s, it became known that she was better known then the then prime minister John Major).
She was a classically trained actress (married to a professor of drama) and died at 86, four months after the death of her co-star Wendy Richard, who in real life had quite a posh accent, having lived in Mayfair as a child.
Discover the Essex Coast
The Essex coast stretches for over 350 miles, and has diverse scenery – marshes, estuaries and pebble beaches, plus classic seaside resorts (some are a little run-down, but have so much potential).
Visit the remote Dengie Peninsula to experience open salt marsh and big East Anglian skies. For a quieter day, stroll along the shore at Bradwell-on-Sea or Tollesbury and take in the wide sea views.
Beautiful Coastal Towns
- Frinton-on-Sea is a quiet haven, famous for its wide sandy beach and elegant promenade. Time slows down here. Residents and visitors appreciate its Victorian beach huts and tree-lined avenues.
- Just up the coast, Walton-on-the-Naze features red-brick Naze Tower stands tall above the cliffs, offering sweeping sea views. Migratory birds flock to the nearby marshes. Walton mixes traditional seaside charm with a chance to get close to nature.
- Southend-on-Sea comes alive with its seven miles of shoreline. The world’s longest pleasure pier, stretching into the Thames estuary, is its most famous landmark.
- Clacton-on-Sea shares a similar energy but with its own identity. Its Victorian pier, sandy beaches, and holiday parks have drawn crowds since the early 1900s.
Marvel at Maldon’s Maritime Heritage
Maldon sits on the Blackwater Estuary, mixing history with natural beauty. The Hythe Quay is lined with old Thames sailing barges bobbing by the riverside.
Watch the tide roll in and spot the unique houseboats tucked along the banks. Promenade Park is perfect for a relaxed walk with river views and open skies.
Of course, this town is best-known for Maldon Sea Salt, served in all the local pubs. Sea salt is far better for you, than cakey iodised table salt. In Italy, not salting your pasta makes it ‘silly pasta!’
Walk Through Epping Forest
Spanning nearly 6,000 acres, Epping Forest is England’s beloved ancient woodland. Enjoy winding paths through old beech and oak trees, or admire spring flowers.
The forest is rich with wildlife. Also look out for deer, woodpeckers and all softs of butterflies.
Visit Traditional Essex Windmills
Essex windmills are landmarks across the countryside. Stock Windmill, a white smock mill dating to the 1700s, stands above village rooftops. Thaxted Windmill, with its red brick and classic sails, welcomes visitors to climb its winding stairs and learn about milling history. A visit gives you countryside views and a look at rural life in earlier days.
Many mills open for special events, letting you see the machinery in action. Keep an eye out for the smaller post and tower mills hidden in villages across the county.
The Pretty Towns and Villages of Essex
Saffron Walden has winding streets and timber-framed buildings, to show off centuries of history. The twice-weekly market is at the heart of the town, offering everything from fresh bread to handmade gifts.
You’ll find gardens, ancient churches, and boutique shops around every corner. The town’s name comes from the saffron crocus, once grown here and traded in London. Saffron Walden holds onto its past while giving you plenty of reasons to visit today.
- Dedham is a pretty village situated within a National Landscape, not far from Colchester. It sits close to the River Stour.
- Coggeshall is packed with history, from the old abbey to medieval buildings, and crooked cottages.
- Thaxted has the atmosphere of an old English storybook. Cobbled streets wind past a grand church, timber-framed guildhall, and even a windmill. The market square has hosted traders for over 800 years.
- Manningtree claims to be the smallest town in England, sitting on the banks of the River Stour. The high street is lined with Georgian homes, independent shops, and classic pubs.
- Finchingfield is known as Essex’s prettiest village. Thatched cottages, a duck pond, and a green give it a postcard look. Local bakers and cafes fill the air with the scent of fresh bread and coffee. The windmill overlooks the village.
- Wivenhoe blends a creative energy with riverside views. Home to artists and writers, it’s full of colourful homes and quirky galleries. The quayside is perfect for a stroll or a pint in a local pub.
Mersea Island and Wallasea Island
- A few miles outside Colchester is Mersea Island, which looks more like a Caribbean Island (like Holy Island in Northumberland, this has no access at high tide, so check times before visiting). East Mersea is quieter than West Mersea, with wild beaches and the remains of a Roman villa.
- Bridgemarsh Island lies in the River Crouch, and supported a small community in the 19th century. After the flood of 1953, it was abandoned for good, and nature quickly took over.
- Cindery Island sits in the Blackwater Estuary, southeast of Osea. It’s a low-lying patch of saltmarsh, with waders and wildfowl feeding on the mud. You can only reach it by boat, and only at certain times.
- Foulness Island sits northeast of Southend, shielded by wide saltmarshes. It’s the second biggest island in Essex, and owned mostly by the MOD that uses it for weapons testing. Countless wading birds rest here on their journeys.
- Great Cob Island is a slim, sandy spit off the coast of Mersea, in the Blackwater Estuary. It’s surrounded by mudflats and saltmarsh, visited by birds and seals, and an important migratory route.
- Osea Island his not far from Maldon, an Edwardian retreat where you can still book self-catering cottages.
- Wallasea Island lies where the Crouch and Roach rivers meet. Home to Europe’s largest coastal wetlands restoration. Keep well away, due to sinking mud.
