To learn to sew your own clothes is a fun and empowering thing to do, and if you get any good, could create your own little cottage industry. Whether that’s just a repairs and alteration service (which is good for the zero waste lifestyle – darn socks, mend hems etc) or making custom clothes for people local to you. Ideally, sew with recycled or sustainable fabrics (organic cotton, hemp & linen). Keep fabric scraps away from pets and children, and keeps pins and needles securely stashed.
Below are some good books to start you off. If you prefer to learn in person, look out for local sewing classes. You can find nice digital patterns and tips at Tilly and the Buttons (above). On the other side of the pond, Seamwork member site includes sewing tips, a video class and 2 patterns (out of 200) each month.
How to Make & Modify Clothes
The Act of Sewing is a book on how to make and modify clothes. Maybe you learned to sew in school and have a sewing machine, but it hasn’t been outside the cupboard since your last move. Or maybe you are new to the craft, but no idea how to thread your machine. No matter what your experience, this workbook offers four basic patterns:
- A simple top with built-in sleeves
- A below-the-knee skirt with elasticated waist
- A pair of trousers
- A tailored shirt with set-in sleeves
Empower yourself to express your personal style and make clothes, that are comfortable for your body type. After explaining the concepts of sewing and construction, Sonya Philip provides suggestions for mixing the basic patterns together, to create new garments as you gain confidence:
- Full bust
- No bust
- Long torso
- Big
- Small
- Alterations
- Embellishments
- Add sleeves
- Add pockets
- Add hems
You’ll also learn the basic terminology of sewing:
- Stitch settings
- Tension
- Seam allowance
- Pinning
- Backstitching
- Basting
- Gathering
Going beyond simple pattern instructions, this book makes sewing garments accessible for each body type, in a range of sizes from XS to 4X. With inspiring essays on Sonya’s sewing philosophy that speaks to the slow ethical fashion movement, this is your go-to guide for aspirational or seasoned sewists.
Sustainable Pattern-Free Fashion
Radical Sewing offers sustainable, no-pattern fashion for all bodies. Take control of your wardrobe, and learn how to escape from the never-ending cycle of fast fashion. Regardless of sewing experience, gender or body type – this illustrated guide will empower you with information on basic sewing techniques, how to alter clothes to fit your unique body, and detailed instructions on how to recreate your favourite clothing items.
Recycle & Revamp Your Clothes
Fashion Hacks is a beautiful book that teaches you how to reconstruct and embellish well-worn clothes and vintage finds into sustainable clothing. An experienced dressmakers shoes how to rework cloths into new styles, by changing necklines, sleeves and hems or to create a brand new dress from old ones. Make a pretty blouse from a floral dress or convert a man’s shirt, into a stylish shirt dress. Or bring a skirt up to date with an asymmetric hem or add interest to a plain top with an embellished collar, made using a linen table doily. Includes 3 full-size patterns and tips on sourcing vintage clothes, to create a wardrobe that’s all your own.
Where to Find Organic Fabrics
Organic fabrics are ideal for anyone who likes to sew. They are not damaged by chemicals. So not only is this better for the planet and wildlife, but they tend to last longer too. Here are a few places where you can find them: Made from 100% GOTS-certified organic cotton poplin, Frugi does not apply flame retardant (so keep away from flammable items like candles and don’t use for floaty nightdresses). Non-refundable. A few other places are listed below. Some list wool, so choose the plant-based materials like hemp, linen, organic cotton etc.
- Organic Textile Company (UK)
- Honey Be Good or Organic Cotton Plus (US)
- Simplifi Fabric & Earth Indigo (CA)
- Zingara Organic Fabrics
- Although a natural fabric, the cotton industry uses around 25% of all the world’s (just one t-shirt uses a colossal amount of chemicals and water, which also means farmers have to wear protective clothing in hot weather). Organic cotton is better for the planet and wildlife, and also lasts longer as the fibres are not weakened by chemicals. It’s also a good choice for people with eczema, as it’s less itchy.
- Hemp does grow here, but not much. Only distantly related to cannabis (it has no narcotic properties), this grows organically and removes heavy metals from the earth, as it does so. Like cotton, it’s warm in winter and cool in summer, and again a very good choice for fabric clothing.
- Linen comes from the flax plant. Again this is breathable and comfortable and can be locally grown. It does tend to crinkle, so unless you love ironing, you may prefer this for ‘crumply bed linen’ rather than clothes. But it’s nice for summer dresses or casual trousers.
- Bamboo comes from the world’s fastest-growing grass (industrial bamboo should not be taken from panda habitats, they eat fresh shoots). However, it’s not local and we have to be careful not to create another ‘palm oil’ situation where companies tear down forests to build more bamboo plantations that creates monocultures. Having said that, this plant grows so fast, it’s unlikely to happen. What’s of concern is ‘bamboo viscose or rayon’, when chemicals are added to make it. Choose organic bamboo from sustainable sources. Tencel is like a ‘local bamboo’, but it’s made from trees that are chopped down.
