Walberswick: A Quiet Suffolk Coastal Retreat
Known as one of Suffolk’s ‘posh villages’, Walberswick sits on the Heritage Coast, a pretty place of tiny cottages in narrow lanes, often loved as retreats for writers and artists.
Suffolk is a large county just below Norfolk, that faces the cold North Sea. Home to sandy beaches, native seals, pretty beach huts and windmills!
If out walking, always follow the Countryside Code to keep all creatures safe. If at the coast, read about how to keep dogs safe by the seaside.
Never walk on sand dunes, to protect nesting birds, seal pups and other wildlife. Also keep dogs away, especially in breeding season.
It’s an affluent area, with many well-heeled people enjoying a bolthole here, where privacy is respected. One local told The Guardian ‘Celebrities come here, because we don’t make a fuss. I don’t even know who this ginger-haired chap is, who everyone’s talking about. And I don’t much care’.
The name likely comes from ‘Walhbert’ which means a Saxon landowner, For many years, the area was a thriving port trading corn and timber. It used to have trade disputes with the neighbouring village of Dunwich, which even resulted in a royal enquiry!
But silt and coastal changes caused the decline of injury, and today it’s more a sanctuary for creative types, who enjoy coastal walks along the quiet beaches. Nearby is a large nature reserve, enjoyed by many rare birds.
The village is also known for its local ferry service. Unusual in that it’s by rowing boat, a local ‘wherry boat’ so there is no engine. The ferry is based on the traditional Suffolk punt, and can take up to 12 passengers (it’s also dog-friendly).
During winter it may use a motor launch for safety (or if too busy). If you want to contact them, you have to email (because the staff can’t hold a phone, while rowing the boat!)
The (quite snooty!) Seaside Town of Southwold
If you want a lovely seaside town, then Southwold is your man! This is a beautiful little place, with pretty buildings (many alas now holiday lets, rather than homes). Alongside real greengrocers and independent bookshops. And a lighthouse (which still guides ships today), despite being set back from the shore, in the middle of the high street!
Seasonal dog beach bans apply.
The promenade leads to the small pier. But instead of fruit machines, you’ll find a unique amusement arcade: train for the future on a Zimmer frame, or take out frustrations on the ‘Whack a Banker’ machine!
The name is from the Anglo-Savon for ‘south forest’.
One local resident was the writer George Orwell, who with his poet wife adopted a baby at 3 weeks, due to being unable to conceive (his wife died 9 months later after an allergic reaction to anaesthetic, age just 39). George left Southwold for London, and he too died young from TB, age 46.
The Guardian reports that Southwold is lovely, but can be a bit snooty! It has its share of famous residents. But like St Ives and Salcombe, property prices have heaved upwards, with many Londoners buying holiday homes, and ‘rolling in on Friday nights with BMWs full of goodies from M & S for the weekend’.
Of course, this is the problem. Because Southwold is full of lovely little independent shops. And if Londoners do a big shop at a retail park before arriving, that money is not coming into the town.
We want holidaymakers who spend money here, not tourists who come and leave rubbish. Local councillor
When a proposal was put for the council to approve plans to build a swimming pool called ‘Splash 2000’, they refused it, saying ‘No, let them swim in the sea’.
