Devon: Totnes, Ilfracombe, Dartmoor and Exmoor
Devon is a very large county, with seaside resorts to inland villages, two small national parks and two very different cities. From rolling hills to deep blue sea, here you can enjoy a nice cuppa in tea rooms.
Just remember – it’s always jam on top for your vegan afternoon tea in Devon (the other way around in Cornwall!)
Always follow the Countryside Code, to keep all creatures safe.
If at the coast, read our post on keeping dogs safe by the seaside.
Exeter grabs your attention right away. It’s a city that feels lively but not rushed, with streets that tell stories from every century. The cathedral watches over the centre, surrounded by old stone walls, lively pubs, and a relaxed riverbank perfect for wandering.
Old meets new everywhere here. You’ll spot Roman ruins tucked behind busy shops and stylish cafés sitting in Georgian buildings. Locals know the city’s tales, and they’re keen to share a great mix of history, hidden gems, and fresh ideas. Whether you’re after classic sights, riverside strolls, or quirky trivia, Exeter won’t disappoint.
Northernhay Gardens: England’s Oldest Public Space
Just steps from the busy shops sits Northernhay Gardens. This spot isn’t just a place for a picnic or a quiet walk; it’s Britain’s oldest public open space, dating back to 1612. Built on land once used as part of Exeter’s Roman defences, the gardens have welcomed locals for hundreds of years.
The website states that only guide dogs are permitted, so find other dog-friendly parks nearby for other pooches to sniff and play. Read our post on pet-friendly gardens.
The gardens gained fresh life after the Civil War, when the city wanted to create a shared green space for everyone. Walk its winding paths today and you pass sweeping lawns, flower beds, and tall trees that have shaded generations.
Exeter’s High Rate of Rough Sleeping
Outside of London, Exeter has England’s highest rate of rough sleepers, with over 40 people each night sleeping in doorways, under bridges, or wrapped in coats along the city’s edges. Help is provided locally by Julian House and St Petrock’s.
If you see someone sleeping rough, send a report to StreetLink, whose outreach teams visit rough sleepers at night, to alert them of support to find benefits (which can be collected from local post offices using the government’s Payment Exception Service) and accommodation (if the person is under 18, call 999). Also read how to help rough sleepers that live with dogs.
Participating shops and cafes can receive window decals to promote BillyChip, which local people and tourists can buy to give to homeless people. These can then used to buy hot drinks and meals, or pet food. This keeps homeless people and their dogs safe, without cash which could be robbed.
Birthplace of Coldplay’s Chris Martin
One of the city’s proudest connections is Chris Martin, lead singer of Coldplay. Chris was born in Exeter (his grandfather was the mayor) and grew up in nearby Whitestone. His schooldays took place at Exeter Cathedral School and later Exeter College, both set against the city’s historic heart.
Creativity does not stop with one famous name. The city quietly inspires artists, musicians, and writers every year. From music festivals on the quay to poetry readings in indie bookshops, Exeter feels comfortable with fresh ideas and big dreams—no big city attitude required.
England’s Longest Unsolved Murder
In 1997, a tragic murder took place when local girl Kate Bushell was walking her neighbour’s dog (Gemma was later found wandering the area, alerting police to her being missing). Her murder was similar to that of Lyn Bryant (also from Devon), and today neither murder has been solved.
It’s hoped that soon they will be due to new DNA technology. Meanwhile, information can be given anonymously to Crimestoppers (a £20,000 award remains in place).
Totnes: Riverside Town Full of Character
This is the world’s first Transition Town. Where locals are resilient to oil prices, as they buy and swap local food, get free energy from community solar panels, and even set up independent cinemas above the pub!
The town is very quirky (the independent vibes slightly ruined by a big Morrisons slap in the middle of the town). But elsewhere you’ll find plenty of pretty barges, alternative lifestyles and England’s first zero waste shop (run by a former Manchester United footballer, who also has co-founded Rerooted Organic – oat milks in glass returnable bottles!)
Ilfracombe: North Devon’s Seaside Gem
Ilfracombe sits on the wild north coast, known for its Victorian harbour and dramatic cliffs. Contemporary art mixes with old cottages. Walk the Tunnels Beaches, hand-carved in the 1800.
One resident was James Allen, who would walk to the sea to meditate each morning, then return home to write books like As a Man Thinketh). He and his wife Lily were avid opponents of vivisection, even today, only donate to humane medical research).
All that a man achieves and all that he fails to achieve is the direct result of his own thoughts. The outer conditions of a person’s life will always be found to be harmoniously related to his inner state. Men do not attract that which they want, but that which they are. James Allen
Dartmoor National Park: A Wild Corner of Devon
Dartmoor National Park sits in the heart of Devon, with wide-open moorland. It stretches 954 square kilometres, making it one of the largest open spaces in southern England. Scattered across the park are more than 160 granite tors (natural rocky outcrops.
A huge chunk is now owned by Prince William, passed to him after the death of his grandmother, when his father became King. Land campaigner Guy Shrubsole says that a lot of the land he owns needs serious rewilding as it is ‘devoid of trees and birds for miles’.
Prince William did offer to hand over some land for rewilding, but campaigners says this is ‘small potatoes’. They appreciate the modern Royals are being seen to be ‘green’. But says if they really are, they need to do more to help restore what is kind of ‘England’s rainforest’.
It stretches 954 square kilometres, making it one of the largest open spaces in southern England. Scattered across the park are more than 160 granite tors (natural rocky outcrops.
Never disturb wild ponies, they could kick or become sick, if you fed them. Local experts oversee their welfare. For any concerns, contact the Livestock Protection Officer.
Road Traffic Accidents involving ponies, cattle, donkeys, pigs and sheep must always be reported immediately to the Police on 999.
Ponies wander onto lanes and streets, so drivers must slow down and pay attention. Local signs warn visitors to watch out for ponies, especially at dawn and dusk, when they often cross busy roads.
Exmoor: Wild Moorland and Starry Nights
This is one of England’s smallest national parks, which covers west Somerset and North Devon. It’s the only National Park with a coast, and also features fast-flowing rivers, deep wooded valleys and heather-covered moors. It’s also of course (like Dartmoor and the New Forest), known for its wild ponies who graze the open grassland.
Again, don’t touch or feed wild ponies. For concerns, notify Exmoor Pony Society and Moorland Mousie Trust.
Two (very different) Cities of Devon
Plymouth is Devon’s maritime city, a beacon of naval history. Royal William Yard is now a vibrant hub of culture and history with stunning Georgian architecture, and the Mayflower Steps serve as a poignant reminder of the countless voyages and explorations undertaken.
The other Devon city is Exeter, steeped in history and with ancient architecture and a wealth of green havens. Belmont Park is the place to sit under a canopy of old trees or catch a glimpse of a rainbow over the city skyline. Exeter Cathedral is an architectural gem, built hundreds of years ago in the Gothic style.
Buckfast Abbey (and its strong wine!)
Buckfast Abbey, tucked among woods and gardens, has stood for centuries as a place of prayer. Benedictine monks still live and work here, keeping old traditions alive. The abbey welcomes visitors to see its stone church, peaceful cloisters, and herb gardens.
The abbey is known for making high-caffeine wine that sells well on Glasgow housing estates. It’s known locally as ‘rock the hoose juice’ or a bottle of ‘what are ye looking at?!’
Two Linked ‘Little Switzerland’ Devon Villages
Tucked away on the rugged north coast of Devon, Lynton and Lynmouth are two linked villages that offer charm, stunning scenery, and a real sense of escape. Known as “Little Switzerland,” the area mixes dramatic cliffs, wild moors, and the tumbling rivers of Exmoor National Park.
Be sure to ascend the 862 foot high cliff via the lovingly restored carriages of one of England’s remaining funicular railways, which runs on water power. Built in Victorian times, enjoy beautiful views of the harbour, Exmoor national park and the Bristol channel.
A Car-free Island off Devon’s Coast
So who’s this handsome fellow? He’s a hoopoe bird, that likes to migrate to England from Africa. Often stopping off at Lundy Island off the north Devon coast. Known for its population of 200 Atlantic grey seals.
The island is just 4 miles long, with no roads or cars. People often see see dolphins playing in local waters and puffins. It also has the largest seabird colony in southwest England.
The Lundy cabbage thrives in bare soil. And the island is home to flea beetles (who jump high, due to huge back legs!)
Rhododendrons are an invasive species here, so are removed to protect both cabbage and beetle. Did you know that rhododendrons are toxic to rabbits and guinea pigs? Read our post on pet-friendly gardens.
The only native mammals are pygmy shrews. There are also Soay sheep (from St Kilda in Scotland who during rutting season, crash their curly horns into each other, to win the girl). They are very hardy, less prone to foot-rot and flystrike than other breeds.
Like the New Forest, Lundy Island has its own semi-feral herd of ponies, which aside from vet care and hoof-trimming, are largely left to live alone in the wild. Don’t approach or feed them, due to their feral nature.
Great Mew Stone (a hermit’s island)
Great Mew Stone is a rocky island off the coast of Wembury (a village near Plymouth Sound in South Devon). Known as ‘England’s Alcatraz’, it was previously used as a prison, and was also a smugglers’ refuge. Today it’s a bird sanctuary owned by the National Trust.
Its interesting history includes that of Samuel Wakeham, a hermit who chose exile on the island, rather than being transported to Australia.
So who was Hermit Samuel? In 1744 he was found guilty of a minor crime, and ‘sentenced’ to this island for 7 years. However after moving there with his family, he never came back!
Even his daughter remained there, marrying and raising three children. They all used to garden and grow food, to become self-sufficient. Samuel even began offering boat trips from Wembury beach.
Unfortunately he led a secret dual life as a smuggler, and once caught, had to leave the island. Apparently nobody has lived there since.
Clovelly’s Charming Cobbled Streets
Nestled on the North Devon coast, Clovelly is a picturesque village with cobbled streets that have witnessed centuries of history. Back in the 14th century, the stones provided stable ground to a village perched on cliffs.
The village has charming cafes and traditional pubs to gave at coastal views, and the village is car-free, which adds to its appeal. There is a Land Rover service available for transporting luggage (the modern equivalent to taking donkey rides).
Mitchell and Dickinson recently insulated the entire village of Clovelly, which reduced bills considerably.
Using grants available to insulate lofts and sloping ceilings, followed by draughtproofing and their unique secondary glazing system.
Co-founder Mukti Mitchell is an environmentalist who once sailed around the British coast in a solar-powered boat he built himself – he’s the son of environmentalist writer Satish Kumar.
The owner of Clovelly is a descendent of former Prime Minister Herbert Asquith, so distantly related to Helena Bonham-Carter.
He does appear to be going out of his way to ensure local people can live affordably (a 3-bedroom house here costs around £900). That’s unheard of in Devon (usually at least double that price). It’s also pet-friendly and DSS-welcome.
And unlike some areas of the southwest where empty holiday homes price others out of the market, this home is only for a long-let, on the condition that you ‘get involved with community activities!’
Agatha Christie and Burgh Island
Burgh Island lies off the south Devon coast, and features a beautiful Art Deco hotel that’s been restored to its 1930s glory. You can walk to the island across the wide sandy beach at low tide. At high tide, you can take the sea tractor (which has tall wheels and legs). It’s a bit like a bus, that ‘wades’ through shallow sea water.
Even today the Pilchard Inn (a hideout for 14th century smugglers and pirates) is said to be haunted. If you liked the band Hue & Cry, that’s where their name came from!
The author Agatha Christie stayed on Burgh Island for a period of time, using the peace and quiet to write some of her books. The hotel’s Beach House was actually built in the 1930s, specially for her to write here.
Agatha lived not far away at Greenway (near Dartmouth) but often visited here. She wrote two novels here: ‘And Then There Were None’ and ‘Evil Under the Sun’, which both were set on the island (David Suchet who played Hercule Poirot) and his cast filmed it at the island’s hotel.
