How to grow your own organic roses
There’s nothing more local than an organic English rose, with beautiful scent. They are not the easiest flowers to grow, but worth the effort!
Some roses flourish when left to fend for themselves with little extra attention. Choose types bred for disease resistance and strong growth. These stand up well to organic care and reward you with reliable flowers.
Read more on no-dig gardening and humane slug/snail deterrents. If you live with animal friends, read up on pet-friendly gardens (many bulbs and wildflowers are not safe). Avoid facing indoor foliage to outdoor gardens, to help stop birds flying into windows.
Good roses to grow organically
- Rugosa (shrub) is scented and disease-resistant
- Bourbon (old garden) for a classic look, with repeat blooms
- ‘Geranium’ (ground cover) has bright petals, spreads well
- ‘New Dawn’ (climber) is hardy, with soft pink flowers
Roses demand sunlight for most of the day. Six hours or more keeps them blooming and wards off mould. Check that the space drains well after very wet spells. Roses dislike soggy roots.
Soil pH should fall between 6.0 and 7.0, just a touch acidic to neutral. If you are unsure, a cheap test kit gives instant answers. Space your plants well apart (about 60cm for most bushes) so air can flow around each one. Good air flow keeps fungal problems, such as black spot, in check.
Set up no-dig beds
Level off grass or weeds by mowing the proposed site as short as possible. Lay down sheets of plain cardboard or a thick layer of newspaper to block out light and slow weed regrowth. Wet these layers to help them settle and start breaking down.
Add a 10 to 15cm layer of rich compost or well-rotted manure on top. If you can, use organic material from your own compost heap. Finally, cover the bed with a mulch of wood chips, straw, or grass clippings. This friendly base supports worms and fungi while smothering hardy weeds without any need for heavy digging.
Roses appreciate deep, regular watering, especially during dry spells. One good soak each week, about 2.5cm deep, lets roots grow strong. Always water early in the day to let leaves dry and cut disease risk.
Prune in late winter. Remove any weak or dead branches first. Then, cut back the main stems by about one third, shaping the bush so air flows through. This stops disease getting a hold and helps new shoots form. Always use clean, sharp pruning shears to prevent the spread of infections.
If aphids gather on young shoots, encourage ladybirds (natural predators). For fungal issues like black spot or powdery mildew, spray affected leaves with a diluted baking soda solution (one teaspoon per litre of water, a drop of soap to help it stick).
