Rutland (England’s Smallest County with no motorways!)
Rutland is England’s smallest county, apparently depending on whether the tide is in or out on the Isle of Wight! It used to be part of Leicestershire, but now is its own independent county. With few fast food chains or motorways, it’s nice if you want to be away from the hustle and bustle.
Just countryside walks, a couple of market towns, Rutland water and pretty villages. With a population of just 40,000 or so, the county name is ancient Saxon for ‘Rugelanda’, which means ‘Rook’s island’.
If out walking, follow the Countryside Code to keep all creatures safe.
Rutland Water: Bringing Back Ospreys
This is one of the Europe’s largest artificial lakes. But like the Suffolk and Norfolk Broads, don’t let the word ‘manmade’ fool you. It’s also a haven for wildlife, which has seen almost-extinct ospreys (fish-eating birds of prey) return from their African migration, to settle here in their thousands, along with many other birds.
Due to hunting in Victorian times, at one point there was just one breeding pair left (in Scotland). Ospreys are still pretty rare in England, with the only other main place to see them being in Cumbria.
Ospreys look a little like brown and white gulls. They use reversible toes (that turn 180 degrees) to hunt for slippery fish. They are such good ‘fishermen’ that around 70% of dives are successful. And if hungry, they usually catch a fish in around 12 minutes.
Living up to 20 years in the wild, ospreys migrate from West Africa (3000 miles) around February. Their eggs often hatch one-by-one, sometimes up to 5 days apart. The birds are possibly named after the Latin word ‘ossifragus’ (it means ‘bonebreaker).
Beyond ospreys, Rutland Water attracts overwintering wildfowl, waders, and rare butterflies.
Normanton Church was saved from flooding during the creation of Rutland water, and stands alongside as a museum on the lake.
This Grade 2 listed building has a raised flood with an embankment built around it, making it appear to ‘float on water’ when the reservoir is full, and appearing to sink, when water levels are low.
Two Nice Market Towns
Oakham is Rutland’s county town, still packed with independent shops and centuries of history. The castle dates back to Norman times. And after shopping on market days for local food and crafts, you can partake in refreshments at one of Oakham’s many friendly tea rooms or pubs.
Uppingham has also has independent shops, and a more arty feel, with lots of small galleries. A cultured place, with a well-known public school. One former pupil was Stephen Fry, who by his own admission was a bit of a scallywag, back in the day. He was expelled for credit card fraud, but of course now has changed his ways!
Founded in 1584, the headmaster in the 1930s and 1940s caused controversy when he suggested decriminalising homosexuality, at a time when it was illegal. His son (a foreign war correspondent) was gay, which likely influenced his decision.
Hardly Any Supermarkets or Fast Food Chains
Due to being so small, until recently Rutland had no supermarkets or McDonald’s. That’s no longer the case, but you won’t many superstores. The argument given for new fast food restaurants etc, is always ‘to create new jobs’.
But small indie shops provide more jobs proportionally and tend to pay and treat staff better. Yet there were just 55 objections to the new McDonald’s.
Sales by the mega fast food chain have recently fallen by around 1%, a decline in net income of around $2 billion. The company says it’s due to a cost-of-living crisis (a Big Mac now costs double what it did).
But others believe that ‘new consumers’ are now asking questions on food and environmental ethics, knowing that ‘British meat’ hardly ever means free-range.
Home to England’s Smallest Ever Man
The smallest county was once home to the smallest man. Sir Jeffrey Hudson was just 18 inches tall (1ft 5in). Back in the 17th century, life was obviously lived differently. He was presented to Queen Henrietta Maria (in a pie) and once even killed a man in a duel.
He also spent 25 years as a slave in North Africa, before being rescued and returning to England. He had the misfortune to then be imprisoned for being Catholic during/after the Reformation, and died in a pauper’s Catholic grave.
The quick geography: close to big places, but it stays calm
Rutland sits in the East Midlands, tucked between places many people know better. Leicester is close to the west, while Peterborough sits to the south-east. Stamford is just over the border and often used as a handy base. Grantham is also within easy reach, especially if you’re coming from the north.
You can drive in on main A roads, then branch off into smaller routes as the landscape softens. Trains don’t run to every corner of Rutland, but that’s not a problem. Instead, people often use nearby stations (Peterborough, Stamford, Grantham, Leicester), then hop into a taxi or pick up a local bus.
Once you’re in Rutland, distances feel friendly. Most stops are around 10 to 25 minutes apart by car. As a result, you can keep plans loose and still see a lot.
No motorways, no rush: what that means for driving, cycling, and walking
Without motorways, journeys here feel more like threading a needle than firing down a chute. You follow A roads, then quieter lanes, with hedges close and views opening up in small bursts. It’s slower, but it’s also more human.
Allow a little extra time, especially at weekends. You’ll meet tractors, horses, and cyclists, sometimes on the same stretch of road. In addition, village parking can be limited, so it helps to arrive early and park considerately.
Cycling suits Rutland’s pace. So does walking, because you can stitch together short routes and still end up somewhere good for lunch. Instead of racing from place to place, plan a loop, linger at a viewpoint, then move on when you’re ready.
Rutland Water: easy lakeside walks, bike rides, and bird spotting
Rutland Water is big enough to feel like a proper escape, even if you’ve only driven a short way. The shoreline paths make it easy to tailor your day. Some routes are short and flat, good for a gentle stroll. Others suit longer bike rides, with plenty of places to pause and watch the water.
Birdlife is a major draw, particularly in spring and autumn. Summer brings a busier, holiday feel, with more people out for water activities. Winter, on the other hand, has space and light, with big skies and quiet paths that make a thermos of tea feel like a good plan.
Families often head for the play areas and cafés, because it keeps everyone moving and fed. If you’re visiting with someone who needs an easier surface, the flatter sections near the main visitor areas are a safer bet than more uneven country footpaths.
Pretty villages and viewpoints you can reach without a long drive
Rutland does villages well, especially if you like stone cottages, churchyards, and a pub that looks as if it’s always been there. The Hambleton Peninsula is a classic for views over Rutland Water, with that tucked-away feeling you’d expect much further from home.
Exton and Empingham are both easy stops for a short wander, while Edith Weston sits close to the water and works well as part of a loop. Ketton, near the borders, is another good option if you’re stitching Rutland into a wider trip.
A visit goes better when you keep things simple and respectful:
- Park considerately: don’t block gateways, and use marked spaces where you can.
- Stick to footpaths: fields often have livestock, even when they look empty.
- Keep dogs close: especially near sheep and cattle, and on narrow lanes.
Getting there and getting around without stress
If you’re coming by train, aim for nearby stations such as Peterborough, Stamford, Grantham, or Leicester, then continue by taxi or bus. Buses exist, but services can be limited, especially on Sundays. As a result, a car, or a bike if you’re staying near the lake, gives you far more freedom.
Parking is usually straightforward in Oakham and Uppingham, with town car parks available. Lakeside parking can fill up on warm weekends, so arriving earlier makes the day smoother. If you want watersports or hire bikes, booking ahead can save time in peak season.
One-day Rutland itinerary that actually works (and leaves breathing space)
This plan keeps driving light and gives you space to linger.
- Morning in Oakham: wander the centre, then pop into Oakham Castle for a quick, memorable stop.
- Late morning to early afternoon at Rutland Water: choose a short walk or a longer cycle, then have lunch at a café, or bring something and sit near the shore.
- Mid to late afternoon in Uppingham: browse independent shops, then settle in for an early dinner, or a long coffee and something sweet.
If it rains, swap more time at the water for cosy cafés, town browsing, and the castle. For families, keep the lake visit shorter, focus on flatter paths, and build in a play stop so the day doesn’t drag.
