Oswestry is a market town in Shropshire, just 2 miles from the Welsh border. Named after King Oswald of Northumbria, he was killed in a battle here in AD 642.
Like Berwick-upon-Tweed (in Northumberland), this town has a long history of changing hands, sometimes being rules by England, and other times by Wales. You can still see ruins of a Norman castle from 1000 years ago.
This is Shropshire’s third largest town in one of England’s least populated counties. It still runs food markets twice a week, and has a rich and interesting history.
Although it’s in England, because it’s just five miles from the border, many signs and road signs are also in Welsh. Which nobody would understand unless they’re Welsh, because it looks like one of the world’s most difficult languages.
Poet Wilfred Owen was born here, but he only published five poems (he wrote many more) before his death in war age just 25, just one week before the Armistice. His poetry (which focused on the horrors of war rather than glamorising it) makes for powerful reading, even today.
Hay-on-Wye (a book town on the Welsh border)
Right on the Welsh border is Hay-on-Wye, which has more second-hand bookshops than any other in the UK. It also hosts an annual book festival, which draws thousands of visitors from across the world. Introvert bookworms meet new literary friends, in this most unique place.
Trying to save your independent bookstore? Be inspired by this town, which has over 20 of them! Most follow the golden rule of niching down, rather than just selling books about anything and everything. Some bookstores here focus on:
- Children’s books
- Antiquarian and rare books
- Nature and botany
Hay-on-Wye famously has ‘honesty bookshops. Where if shops are closed, visitors can leave payment in a box to buy books on outdoor shelves.
Local legend claims that Hay Castle was built in just one night by Maud Walbee (a giantess, who carried the stones in her pocket!)
Despite being in Wales, this town has a (Herefordshire) English postcode. The town sits on River Wye (the fifth longest in England).
Hay-on-Wye? Is that some kind of sandwich? Arthur Miller, American playwright on his first visit
From the gardens of Bombay, all the way to lovely Hay. Ian Dury
Welsh words you will spot everywhere
Bilingual signs are normal (especially in north Wales), so you’ll see Welsh alongside English from the start. A few words pop up often:
- Croeso (welcome)
- Araf (slow)
- Llan (often the start of place names, linked to a church or enclosure)
Pronunciation can feel daunting at first, yet you don’t need to “get it right” to enjoy it. Try a simple “Bore da” (good morning) if you fancy, or just smile and carry on!
Anglesey is home to one of the longest village names in the world:
Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch
Offa’s Dyke and the Welsh Coast Path
Offa’s Dyke Path is a long trail that follows much of the England Wales border. You can pick a short section, walk for a few hours, then finish with a pub lunch. Choose a hill section for views, you’ll often see both countries at once. Plan 3 to 5 hours including stops, and keep a warm layer for exposed ridges.
Pembrokeshire suits a full day when you want the sea to do the heavy lifting. Start with an easy out-and-back walk on the Wales Coast Path, around 5 to 10 km depending on your time and legs. That way, you always know how you’re getting back, and you can turn around when the wind starts to feel sharp.
Expect cliff edges, sudden little coves, and that bright salt smell that clings to your jacket. You may spot seals hauled out on rocks (leave them alone) or just the shapes of birds skimming low over the waves. If rain closes in, swap the walk for a cosy café or a small local gallery nearby.
When out walking, always follow the Countryside Code, to keep all creatures safe. At the coast, read how to keep dogs safe by the seaside.
Don’t walk on sand dunes (to protect endangered natterjack toads) and keep you and dogs away from coastal birds and flowers (some are toxic) and seals. Join the campaign to ban flying rings, to help local seals.
