A Guide to the County of Essex, Naturally
Saffron Walden, Geraldine Burles
Essex is a large county in East of England. Far more than Bluewater shopping centre, the Dartford Tunnel and cheeky boys, this is a mostly rural county of windmills and country pubs, with England’s second-longest coastline.
Epping Forest spans nearly 6000 acres, and is rich wild wildlife including deer, woodpecker and many species of butterflies).
Just like Norfolk and Suffolk, windmills are a common site in Essex. Stock Windmill dates back to the 1700s and red-brick Thaxted Windmill welcomes visitors to climb its stairs, and learn about milling history.
If out walking, always follow the Countryside Code to keep all creatures safe. If at the coast, read about how to keep dogs safe by the seaside.
Never walk on sand dunes, to protect nesting birds, seal pups and other wildlife. Also keep dogs away, especially in breeding season.
Pretty Towns and Villages in Essex
- Dedham is a pretty village situated within a National Landscape, not far from Colchester. It sits close to the River Stour.
- Coggeshall is packed with history, from the old abbey to medieval buildings, and crooked cottages.
- Thaxted has the atmosphere of an old English storybook. Cobbled streets wind past a grand church, timber-framed guildhall, and even a windmill. The market square has hosted traders for over 800 years.
- Manningtree claims to be the smallest town in England, sitting on the banks of the River Stour. The high street is lined with Georgian homes, independent shops, and classic pubs.
- Finchingfield is known as Essex’s prettiest village. Thatched cottages, a duck pond, and a green give it a postcard look. Local bakers and cafes fill the air with the scent of fresh bread and coffee. The windmill overlooks the village.
- Wivenhoe blends a creative energy with riverside views. Home to artists and writers, it’s full of colourful homes and quirky galleries. The quayside is perfect for a stroll or a pint in a local pub.
- Saffron Walden has winding streets and timber-framed buildings, to show off centuries of history. The twice-weekly market is at the heart of the town, offering everything from fresh bread to handmade gifts.
Chelmsford and Colchester: Two Historic Essex Cities
Colchester dates from Roman times, and is England’s oldest recorded town. Sitting on the River Colne, it’s known as the driest place in England, and even suffered an earthquake in 1884 that made the news. The effects were even felt in Suffolk and London, damaging over 1200 buildings (cracking walls and damaging chimneys). Caused by a fault in the underlying ancient bedrock.
Did you know that the nursery rhyme Old King Cole, was likely based on Coel Hen, a ruler from Colchester? Some also say that Humpty Dumpty was named after a large cannon, used during the Siege of Colchester in the English Civil War in 1648.
Fenwick is one of England’s last remaining independent department stores (it doesn’t sell food, so thankfully unlike Harrods in London, it does not sell foie gras). And unlike Harrods, it has a policy of not selling real fur either (it even sells vegan leather coats).
Began by merging a haberdashery with a hardware store, independent stores retain money in the local economy, rather than sending it out to billionaire owners overseas (Fenwick is family-owned, Harrods is owned by Qatar Investment Fund).
Although now terribly dated, the comedy Are You Being Served? had millions of viewers back in the 70s, not thanks mostly due to John Inman and Mollie Sugden. Based on the author’s time working in a Piccadilly department store, and John Inman’s first job as a department store window dresser.
Born to two hairdressers in Preston (Lancashire), some criticised John Inman’s camp persona, as giving the wrong impression of gay people. But John said all he wanted was to make people accept through comedy (he was in a committed relationship for 30 years).
Mollie Sugden became a national icon with her purple hair and references to her beloved cat (in a survey in the early 90s, she was better known than then-Prime Minister John Major).
She was a classically trained actress (married to a professor of drama) and died at 86. Four months after the death of her co-star Wendy Richard, who in real life had quite a posh accent, having lived in Mayfair as a child.
Chelmsford’s claim to fame is being the birthplace of modern radio, the first wireless broadcast made (using technology that later helped survivors of the Titanic to be found, thanks to broadcasting to a nearby ship).
It sounds good (the inventor was a handsome Italian immigrant – until we find he went onto become a member of Mussolini’s Fascist Party). A bit like statues of slave traders in England have been removed, in Italy memorials to his intellect have now been destroyed, Italians preferring to forget this ugly part of their history.
Where the Porridge Film (was filmed!)
A happier memory for Porridge fans is that the indoor scenes for the feature film (where Fletch and Godber accidentally escape and have to get back inside) were filmed at Chelmsford Prison (which was empty due to a refurbishment, after a fire).
Some of the football players were real ones from a local team. One recalled that unlike his character, Ronnie Barker was very reserved (almost shy) and very posh (unlike his character!)
And that Richard Beckinsale would often happily visit the local Oddfellows Arms, to have a brandy and smoke a huge cigar!
Discover the Essex Coast (all 350 miles of it!)
Essex has (after Cornwall), England’s longest coastline at over 350 miles, with a diverse mix of sandy beaches and even a few islands. The mudflats and saltmarshes are a haven for wading birds, who use their long beaks to dredge up tasty nibbles, before flying off with their extra long legs!
The Broomway is England’s most dangerous stretch of sinking mud on Maplin Sands. Many people have drowned in fast-rising tides and/or quicksand, so keep well away. The area also contains unexploded military debris, due being used by the Ministry of Defence.
Southend-on-Sea is a popular holiday resort, with the world’s longest pleasure pier (at over 1 mile, it even has its own train if you don’t want to walk it). There are seven miles of coast and a rich history as a ‘bathing town’ during the 18th century.
Clacton-on-Sea is another large seaside holiday resort, again with a large pleasure pier and sandy beaches. It’s known for its pretty seafront rose gardens. The town was only created in 1871, making it one of England’s newest towns.
Harwich is an historic port town, located at the mouth of the Stour and Orwell estuaries, on the North Sea. It still features an 18th century lighthouse, a 17th century wheel crane, and a Napoleonic fort. The old buildings house a wealth of maritime history.
Brightlingsea is another town with a rich seafaring history, featuring a sandy beach, pretty beach huts and an outdoor swimming lido. Originally an island, today it’s a peninsula surrounded by the River Colne and Brightlingsea Creek.
Frinton-on-Sea is a quiet little seaside town, with sandy beaches and Victorian beach huts. Back in the day, it was known as the ‘Bond Street of East Anglia’, due to being a popular resort for wealthy aristocrats, which led to many fashionable high-end boutiques (it also housed a tennis tournament only second to Wimbledon).
And until recently, due to an old ‘dry law’ banning public houses, it had no pubs!
Walton-on-the-Naze is another quieter resort, home to unique cliffs and a nature reserve for birds and seals. Again populated with pretty beach huts, coastal erosion sometimes reveals everything from fossils to wartime pillboxes.
Learn About The Tiny Islands of Essex
You don’t really associate Essex with islands, do you? But with England’s second-longest coastline, there are quite a few of them. Not all are inhabited by humans, but a few are!
Mersea Island is the most easterly island in England (inhabited by humans), connected to the mainland by The Strood, a tidal causeway that floods at high tide (so check tide times, to avoid getting stranded). The name comes from old English for ‘sea island’.
Popular since Roman times as a holiday destination, today it’s a popular sailing resort. Just five miles long and two miles wide, there is even an annual round-island race with local boats.
Canvey Island is a seaside resort on the Thames estuary, heavily influenced by Dutch engineers who helped to build its sea defences, you’ll still find historic Dutch cottages there today, with views of the Kent coast. In the first part of the 20th century, this was one of England’s most popular seaside holiday resorts.
- Bridgemarsh Island lies in the River Crouch, and supported a small community in the 19th century. After the flood of 1953, it was abandoned for good, and nature quickly took over.
- Cindery Island sits in the Blackwater Estuary, southeast of Osea. It’s a low-lying patch of saltmarsh, with waders and wildfowl feeding on the mud. You can only reach it by boat, and only at certain times.
- Foulness Island sits northeast of Southend, shielded by wide saltmarshes. It’s the second biggest island in Essex, and owned mostly by the MOD that uses it for weapons testing. Countless wading birds rest here on their journeys.
- Great Cob Island is a slim, sandy spit off the coast of Mersea, in the Blackwater Estuary. It’s surrounded by mudflats and saltmarsh, visited by birds and seals, and an important migratory route.
- Osea Island his not far from Maldon, an Edwardian retreat where you can still book self-catering cottages.
- Wallasea Island lies where the Crouch and Roach rivers meet. Home to Europe’s largest coastal wetlands restoration. Keep well away, due to sinking mud.
Maldon: Home of Very Good Sea Salt!
Maldon is a town that sits on the Blackwater Estuary, mixing history with natural beauty. The Hythe Quay is lined with old Thames sailing barges bobbing by the riverside.
You can watch the tide roll in, or treat yourself to a meal at a local pub, which will undoubtedly be using Maldon sea salt, sustainably harvested and far better for you than cakey iodised table salt.
