East Sussex (historic towns, seaside and smugglers!)
East Sussex is a large county in southeast England, which spans the historic towns of Rye, Battle and Hastings (where smugglers used to ply their trade) to Edwardian resorts like Bexhill-on-Sea, a major city and inland weald towns.
Rye Harbour Nature Reserve is near Camber Sands (never walk on sand dunes, keep to designated paths to protect nesting birds and wildlife) and the historic hilly town of Rye. It’s home to over 4000 species of wildlife, including 300 rare species.
When out walking, always follow the Countryside Code, to keep all creatures safe. Obviously dogs have to be kept on leads, near coastal wildlife. Read more on keeping dogs safe by the seaside.
The reserve features a moving shingle coastland and a variety of habitats including salt marshes, shingle ridges and woodlands. Along with ‘Norton’s Cabin’, a popular photography subject, a historic cabin on the beach for happy coastal hermits of old!
The nearby town of Rye is very hilly, with winding cobbled lanes, crooked Tudor houses and centuries-old inns. Mermaid Street is lined with sloping cottages, and home to many independent shops.
Nearby is the village of Winchelsea, where comedian Spike Milligan is buried. He has a Celtic inscription on his grave, after being refused his request for it to read ‘I told I was ill!’ Often classed as one of the funniest ever men, he fought a huge battle with depression, and often spoke on men’s mental health.
Also near Rye is Peasmarsh, a tiny village noted for being home to one of England’s few independent supermarkets. It’s not a ‘green grocery’ but does keep money within the community, and also runs several bakeries and cafes throughout the region.
Two of England’s Few Funicular Railways
Funicular railways or ‘cliff lifts’ are only now in a few towns in England. But they are works of genius to get from low to high places. Two remaining are located in Hastings.
Real engineering brilliance, these are cable-driven railways, designed to tackle steep slopes. Used since the early 19th century, they use a pulley system, where two carriages counterbalance each other, to glide up and down tracks.
Inclined planes are the more traditional type, where tracks are laid on the hill’s natural slope. Meanwhile, cable cars, a more recent variant, sometimes suspend the carriages below an overhead cable.
The South Downs (England’s Newest National Park)
England has 10 National Parks (which seems a lot, but actually is nothing like many other countries (Turkey has over 60). We also have National Landscapes (the new name for Areas of Outstanding Beauty). The idea is that nobody can come along and build on them, so here’s hoping to protect birds and native wildlife. And provide lovely walking holidays for outdoorsy-people!
The South Downs National Park stretches from Winchester (Hampshire) to Eastbourne (East Sussex). It’s mostly known for its chalk downs, and beech woods that glow with copper hues, when autumn arrives. Many villages (like Amberley) lie nestled in the valleys, with old pubs and hidden churches giving a real example of old England.
This park is an International Dark Sky Reserve, free from light pollution. This attracts many wildlife species from butterflies to skylarks and shy deer (who hide in ancient woodlands). Barn owls can safely hunt at dusk, and local nature reserves help to protect rare bats, dormice and orchids.
The South Downs Way is a 100-mile national trail that runs across the heart of the park. It’s well-marked and open to walkers, taking you through open hills, secret valleys and quiet forests.
The Long Man of Wilmington (East Sussex)
The Long Man of Wilmington is a 70ft giant man carved into the chalk hills of South Downs National Park near Alfriston (a pretty ancient Sussex village). His origin and reason for carving him have remained a mystery for generations.
We know he is over 300 years old (due to a sketch of him in 1710), and some believe he could have been carved as early as the Iron Age, or in Roman times.
In 1920, the chalk had faded, so locals and historians gave him a makeover with chisels and paint, and today there are surrounding concrete blocks, so he is easier to maintain!
The Long Man holds a stave in each hand, perhaps to symbolise his strength, to measure the land, or perhaps he was an astronomer? Or is watching over the fields? Nobody knows. One tale is that he marks the site of eternal rest, of two giant brothers who roamed the South Downs, and fell in battle.
If you wish to visit the Long Man without a big hike, it can be viewed from nearby Wilmington Priory. Nearby is the Litlington Chalk Horse, much smaller and carved into the hill in 1924.
The village of Litlington sits on the bank of the River Cuckmere, dating back to Domesday times. It’s home to one of the smallest churches in England, a charming architectural gem inspired by Gothic design, built in the 13 century. So is much older that its horse friend, by several hundred years!
Brighton (England’s version of San Francisco!)
Brighton is one of England’s most vibrant cities, and often compared to the Californian city of San Francisco. It’s very creative (art, music, writing) and also very popular with vegans, environmentalists and gay people. Brighton is also home to The Big Lemon, a private solar bus service.
Alas, it has similar issues like San Francisco with drugs and homelessness.
The standout building in Brighton is the Royal Pavilion. It’s a beautiful place, but controversy over who built it. King George IV (though it must be said he did repent on his deathbed) was labelled by English Heritage as ‘Britain’s most useless monarch’.
His lavishing spending on redecorating the pavilion (and enjoying multi-course banquets) led people in Ely (Cambridgeshire) living on water and gruel to riot. The king amassed massive debts at the public’s expense, including remodelling Buckingham Palace and rebuilding Windsor Castle.
Brighton is also home to one iconic seaside pier (the only one left out of three, the others both destroyed in storms).
Vegan and Zero Waste Shops
Packed with vegan restaurants, Brighton also has vegan grocery stores:
- Kindly Supermarket was set up by a bored entrepreneur, who has ambitious plans to bring this zero waste store to other towns.
- Harriet’s of Hove: This refill shop sells food, beauty and household goods. Just take along your own clean packaging, to save the planet and money. Co-founded by a local couple, he’s a former dentist (who now gives you a refill, instead of a filling!)
- Infinity Foods: Nestled in North Laine, Infinity Foods has been around since the 70s. It stocks organic fruits and veggies, fresh bread, vegan cheese and zero waste staples. It also runs a wholesale business.
Following Caroline Lucas’ retirement from politics, she was replaced by Siân Berry at the last election. A former candidate for London mayor, Sian is a former engineer who focuses on local people power!
Her present campaigns are for Ella’s Law (in memory of the first person in England to die from air pollution). She also against a new runway at nearby Gatwick Airport.
Hope from Moulscoombe’s Sad History
The Brighton suburb of Moulscoombe has a sad history. Back in George IV’s day, he used the area to visit his mansion to escape from crowds and practice the flute. But recently it became home to one of the city’s largest housing estates, often with ‘food deserts’ and high areas of poverty.
The area was in the media in the late 80s, when two young girls were murdered, and the (innocent) father of one charged. The real killer (who had been charged once before) was eventually convicted, thanks to the double jeopardy law being smashed. Thanks to the mother of Julie Hogg (the mother played by Sheridan Smith in a recent TV drama ‘I Fought the Law’).
This law also helped the family of Stephen Lawrence, whose killers were also brought to justice.
Today Moulsecoomb has a forest garden project, which connects people to nature, by offering plots for people to grow their own organic food.
Local girl Jenny Jones made good by becoming a Green Party member in the House of Lords. Unlike Michelle Mone who took the title Baroness of Mayfair, Baroness Jenny of Moulsecoomb took the title from the council estate where she grew up!
On the recent fiasco of the new Labour government destroying wildlife to build affordable homes, she says:
Labour talks about climate change. But they don’t get that if you start killing off species, it actually affects humans.
Roedean School (very humble beginnings)
Roedean is known as the poshest school for girls in England – like the female version of Eton or Harrow. Above are the original staff when it first opened as Wimbledon House. Past students have included Tessa Dahl (daughter of children’s writer Roald Dahl), and the actresses Sarah Miles and Honeysuckle Weeks (who starred in Foyle’s War).
But the school had humble beginnings. Founded by three sisters in 1885, they believed that girls should have the same education as boys. The sisters had fallen on hard times, while caring for their barrister father (who had been injured in a climbing accident). Even today, a Brighton bus is called ‘the Lawrence sisters!’
Banoffee Pie (invented in a Sussex restaurant)
This banoffee pie (Rainbow Nourishments) is super-simple to make. With fresh bananas, vegan biscuits and melted vegan Flora (no palm oil).
To avoid palm oil, make your own pastry (keep fresh dough from children/pets). Read more on food safety for people and pets.
Banoffee pie is one of England’s favourite desserts (very rich, so only for those with a very sweet tooth). Made from bananas and toffee, it uses condensed milk in a pastry shell. Invented in a small East Sussex restaurant, it’s been around since the 70s.
There is a story that the restaurant was so popular due to this dessert, that celebrities would arrive after performing at a nearby theatre. One arrived and it had closed, and apparently asked ‘But don’t you know who I am?’ The restaurant politely said ‘Yes, but we close at 10!’
It is said that (along with peanut butter and jelly sandwiches), banoffee pie was the favourite dessert of Elvis Presley.
